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Oct 25
Wed

Visiting the Kauri Museum & Arriving at Karekare Beach

We leave Baylys Beach campground and stop once more in Dargaville before moving on. Ralph wants to buy jandals here. The salesman tells us some really funny stories about the relationship between the Kiwis and their great neighbour the Aussies. Whether he's talking about Australian rugby fans or Australian surf wax, he does it with sarcasm and we almost die laughing. Afterwards we have quiche and a flat white in the cosy Blah Blah Blah Cafe, then we visit the Kauri Museum in Matakohe in the North of Auckland.

Kauri Museum Matakohe Kauri gum in the Kauri Museum

The museum turns out to be bigger than we imagined and the exposition is really impressive. It documents clearly the sad history of the Kauri trees: unfortunately Kauri wood is one of the world's great timbers and had to pay for the social climbing of the settlers in 19th century. There were about 1 million ha of kauri forest in New Zealand before the felling started, which has left only 9000 ha. Kauri are now strictly protected. In the museum they have reconstructed places and scenes of everyday life typical of that time and you can see a saw mill in action. There's a gigantic slice of a Kauri trunk, Kauri furniture and other valuables made from the precious wood to marvel at. One room gleams in the colour of amber. Here are the showcases with all the Kauri gum. I can't stop myself taking a photo. When an elderly lady mutters I put the camera back into the bag, but the gentleman who follows her whispers «Just do it» with a twinkle in his eye.

You can get lost in the souvenir shop of the Kauri museum. Prices are moderate and there is a wide choice. They have beautiful green stone jewellery and very special wooden bowls and carvings. I buy a necklace with a shapely Hei Matau. The stylized fish hook is carved from green stone. It's a Māori symbol for prosperity and also represents determination and strength. In addition to that, it provides safe journey over water.

Our trip continues along SH12 - 1 - 16, always with the direction Auckland / West Coast Beaches. I really want to go to Karekare Beach which impressed me so much with it's wild water and deep black sands when I saw it on some pictures and in Jane Campion's movie The Piano.

Anywhere on SH16 Anywhere on State Highway 16

The weather's changing between rainy and sunny periods. We are both tired and the trip is quite winding and exhausting. We pass Helensville which seems to be quite an interesting place but we don't stop because the drive takes longer than we expected and it's quite late by now. In Auckland we should turn left somewhere at Waitemata Harbour. We don't know where exactly and we get lost, but we find our way again. When you drive through Auckland it's advisable to look for the street numbers on a detailed map. We find Piha Road which is marked as scenic drive on the map and oh how it is. Native bush with fern trees all over, very narrow and winding. So the drive takes it's time and it's getting dark. From Piha Rd we turn left into Karekare Rd. It is already pitch black when we arrive at the carpark but we've made it to Karekare Beach «where great Pianos were treated poorly» (Lonely Planet). This place seems to be wonderful even in the dark. We decide not to go to the beach until tomorrow and to spend the whole day there then. The way to the beach leads through a stream and you can't see much at the moment ;-)

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